< Download pdf printable version

Adopting a pup, particularly if it is your first dog, represents a major event in your life. To ensure that it begins on the best possible note, some advance preparation is needed (not unlike preparing for a human baby).

Health care for a Newfoundland or a Golden Retriever will include proper affection, nutrition, exercise, sanitized living environment, veterinary care, immunization against canine diseases, grooming, and ongoing protection against parasites.

Please feel free to contact us at any time; we are available to help you locate the resources that you need.

Neighbours

Please discuss your plans for a pup with adjacent neighbours. Of particular importance is your proposed location of the pen, especially if it is to be along a perimeter fence.

It is a good policy to be sensitive to your neighbours' concerns, especially with regard to their sleep times.

If they are willing, try to arrange for your neighbours to meet the new pup when it arrives, or as soon as possible afterwards. Newfs and Goldens often become neighbourhood pets and it is always beneficial if your neighbours like dog well enough to look out for it.

Nutrition

Just as responsible parents exercise good judgment in order to provide only the best possible nutrition for their children during all stages of development and beyond, it is important that each pet owner meet the necessary nutritional requirements needed for appropriate development and/or maintenance of a healthy pet.

Because a Newfoundland can be expected to grow on an average from one pound at birth to approximately 120 pounds at one year of age (for a male), and a Golden Retriever to 75 pounds at one year of age (for a male), it is important to provide the puppy with a high-quality food needed to encourage proper bone to muscle growth ratios.
You can consult with us about the best way to feed your dog.

Be careful not to supplement unbalanced foods and try not to exceed ten percent by weight of the regular diet. Balanced supplements include:

• cottage cheese
• cooked eggs
• raw meat
• raw bones (veal or lamb)
• chicken necks
• wheat germ oil
• tofu
• home made kéfir

Water quality is very important! We recommend to give your dog only spring water or filtered water, depending on the quality of your tap water. Never give your dog distilled water because of the lack of all beneficial minerals.

The nutritional/dietary needs of each dog can vary according to their age and activity level. An average adult Newf will eat approximately three to six cups of dry food plus one half to one pound of raw meat per day. An adult Golden Retriever will eat two to four cups of dry food plus one half pound of meat per day. A growing puppy may eat double the amount of an average adult during rapid growth periods.

Average feeding schedule:

• eight weeks puppy - four small meals per day
• ten to twelve weeks puppy - three to four meals per day.
• after six months - two meals per day (15 minutes per meal)
• one year - ideally two meals or one giant meal plus a snack each day (15 minutes per meal)
  

It is important to measure your dog’s food each day and to never allow your puppy to get fat. Over feeding and underfeeding are both serious issues. Overfeeding will not allow your puppy grow any larger than his genetic makeup will grow, so feed smart. Excess weight on a dog reduces the life span expectancy, adds strain on tissues and growing bones, and enhances your pet’s chances of developing future problems.

Because different foods contain different ingredients and nutrients, changing your dog’s food too quickly can upset the bacterial balance in his system. For this reason always increase, decrease and switch dogs foods slowly and use stainless steel feeding/watering dishes. Stainless steel dishes can be sterilized. They offer greater safety because they will not chip or break while being a much less desirable chew toy than other dishes.

Note: "Never" feed cooked bones, chocolate, onion. Here's why:

• Cooked bones (any kind) should not be fed because they can splinter and puncture the intestines.
• Chocolate contains a substance called theobromine, which is toxic. Never feed chocolate or any food containing it to your pet.
• Large amounts of onion can destroy your pet's red blood cells causing anemia.

When your pup moves to your house, virtually everything will be different. One of the few things that can and should be the same is his food. Ensuring that you have the proper food on hand for his arrival will help him cope with the transition.

Since the premium food that your pup is on is not usually sold by retailers,depending on the areas, we recommend that you locate a convenient supplier in your area, and if necessary, place your first order. Alternatively, you can buy your first bag of food from us; we will sell it to you at our cost.

Exercise

As with all animals, exercise is essential for proper skeletal and muscle growth and/or condition. Due to the fact that Newfs and Goldens are subject to orthopedic problems, special care must be given not to over exercise a young or growing puppy. Puppies, like toddlers, should be allowed to play freely, but should never be worked or exercised until their skeletal frames have matured.

Most puppies of large and giant breeds go through some awkward and/or uneven growth stages of development during the first year. Be patient, as most puppies will mature to a temperament and appearance somewhat similar to that of their parents.

Development states for a Newfoundland are as follows:

• first year-puppy grows height
• second year-acquires muscle and rib
• third year-maturity is reached

Development states for a Golden Retriever are as follows:

It is best to consult with us regarding the best time to begin a proper exercise program for their specific bloodlines. Provide proper terrain for puppy play/exercise and avoid slippery floors/surfaces, including ice, which are dangerous for a puppy or adult at play.

 

Outside accomodation

It is most essential that the pen and/or fencing plus the dog house or shelter be in place before your pup arrives. Without this, toilet training could be become a nightmare.

Fencing must be a minimum of five feet high and the area must be a minimum of 196 square feet. Dog run panels are highly recommended. We prefer a 12' by 16' pen.

The shelter should have a wooden platform or other suitable floor of at least two feet by four feet. If possible, you should consider making it double that size.

The ideal surface is crushed stone with a minimum depth of three inches. The usual stone is "clear" or "clean" 3/4 inch and up crushed stone. You will need a minimum of two yards to cover a 12 by 16 pen; however since stone is inexpensive and trucking is very costly, you might consider ordering a whole truck load. Store the extra stone in a convenient place (possibly in your driveway) as you will need it to fill in holes and to add as the original packs down.

It is a good idea to put railway ties or some other border material around your pen area to prevent the spread of the stone onto your lawn.

Natural or made (e.g. overhead tarp) shade is absolutely crucial for the hot months.

Since every situation is different, you should discuss the outside accommodation with us in detail before investing in the materials.

Equipment
The basic equipment that you should have BEFORE the pup arrives is as listed below:

• WIRE DOG CRATE - 24 inches wide, 40 inches long, 30 inches high for Goldens; 26 or 28 inches wide, 48 inches long and 36 inches high for Newfies.
• LARGE FOOD BOWL
• WATER BUCKET (two for winter months - preferably rubber horse buckets)
• COMBINATION LEASH AND ADJUSTABLE COLLAR
• CHEW ITEMS (latex squeaky toys, sterilized bones)

Poop disposal

This should be planned in advance so that you are ready for the pup's arrival. Methods vary from using the regular garbage (double bagging) to composting to mini-septic systems. If you have any questions on this, please ask us.

Sanitary conditions

Sanitary & cleanly conditions are essential in preventing the growth of disease-producing bacteria. The following are suggestions to help aid in a healthier living environment...

• sanitize food and water dishes after each use
• keep your dog's living areas sanitary at all times
• bath & groom your dog on a regular basis with special attention during shed seasons
• control fleas, ticks, lice and/or mites which can lead to bacterial infections VETERINARIAN

If you do not already have a veterinarian, you should try to locate one before you take possession of your pup. Neighbours with pets (preferably large ones) are a good source.

Ideally the vet clinic should be available for emergencies on a 24 hour basis.

We will arrange for the pup's initial wormings and first shots at seven to eight weeks with our vet. Your vet will advise you of his recommended schedule for further shots (boosters and rabies). If his schedule does not include parvo virus boosters at 16 - 18 weeks, you should request it at the same time as the rabies shot.

Most vets recommend a daily or monthly preventative medication for heartworm. After the first year this is no problem; however, in the first year, should you and your vet decide to put the pup on this medication, please ensure that the pup's weight is monitored closely to ensure the correct dosage.

Avoid unnecessary contact with other dogs until your puppy is mature and/or has immunities against common canine diseases such as:

• distemper
• hepatitis
• leptospiross
• parainfluena
• parvo virus
• corona virus
• rabies

Immunization decisions are a matter of personal and professional judgment choices based on research, statistics, and environmental and immunization risks. As with pediatricians, veterinarians do not always extend, nor understand, necessary information and/or research data that would enable parents/owners to make their own "educated" decisions on vaccination issues.

Obedience classes

You should contact local Kennel and Obedience Clubs and/or private trainers to find out the availability of group lessons and minimum age for such classes.
Private lessons are NOT recommended because your pup needs the socialization that a class setting provides.

Grooming

Grooming is an essential part of the overall health of your Newf or Golden Retriever and will help reduce the chances of bacterial skin infections and order. More grooming results in the need of less baths! If you've never had the privilege of taking a bath especially with a Newf, I'm sure that you'll soon come to understand how wonderful grooming a long haired dog can really be! ;)
Special attention must be given to bodily areas that develop mats easily, which are:

• behind the ears
• inside the hind legs
• chest
• tail
• feathering

Most dogs will look forward to their grooming sessions and the personal one-on-one attention.
Grooming tools which can be useful for ease of grooming include:

• thinning sheers
• blunt tip scissors
• long tooth steel comb
• honey comb
• pure boar bristle brush (ideal for Goldens)
• pin brush
• slicker brush
• rake
• mat/tangle splitter
• dental scraper and toothpaste for dogs
• nail clippers
• ear cleaner (a solution of half water and half white vinegar)
• spray bottles-water, detanglers, or coat dressings
• big towels!
• blow dryer for pets or humans, powerful yet at low temperature

The best shampoo and conditioner must be mild yet effective to provide a deep clean without invading the skin line. On demand we will provide you a list of the best products on the market.

We will tell you about the grooming equipment needed more in detail at your first grooming lesson (usually when you pick up the pup).